Program & Speakers


Friday, December 12th – Full day of plenary talks, 9 am to 6 pm. Morning break, lunch, afternoon break. Reception cocktail for speakers & public.

Saturday, December 13th – 3 concurrent sessions, 9 am to 6 pm. Morning break, lunch, afternoon break. Speaker dinner.

*Papers will be delivered in English or French.


Nuria Aragonès (University of Barcelona/ Paris III, Sorbonne): French press during WWI

Ana Balda (University of Navarra, Spain): WWI and its consequences on the consumption of French Haute Couture by Spanish Royalty, aristocracy and high bourgeoisie

Maude Bass-Krueger (PhD candidate, Bard Graduate Center, NYC): La Parisienne et Le Poilu:  Fictions and fantasies of fashionable women and their soldiers during the War

Beatrice Behlen (Senior Curator, Fashion and Decorative Arts, Museum of London): Collecting and displaying WWI at the Museum of London

Muriel Berthou Crestey (Researcher at ITEM): Adolf de Meyer & Vogue, 1914-1918

Ulrika Berglund (PhD candidate, Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University): The neutrality policy and fashion culture in Sweden, 1914-1918

Nele Bernheim (PhD candidate, University of Antwerp): The fashion house Norine, 1915-1918

Cally Blackman (Lecturer, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts, London): The potential of autochrome as a source of visual evidence for dress historians, archives of La Planète created by Albert Kahn

Regina Lee Blaszczyk (Professor, University of Leeds, UK): Yankee Ingenuity Confronts Paris Fashion: The Hidden History of How World War I Shaped Color Practice in the American Fashion Business

Emily Brayshaw (PhD candidate, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia): Gaby Deslys, ostrich feathers, WWI

Maria Carlgren (PhD candidate, University of Gothenburg, Sweden): Wartime fashions in Stockholm and Paris, looking at the artists Valle Rosenberg and Siri Derkert and their fashion collections for the Swedish fashion house Birgittaskolan during WWI

Laura Casal-Valls (University of Barcelona, Spain): Clothes-making in Barcelona during WWI: effects and consequences of the war

Katy Conover (Independent scholar, London): extent couture garments in British collections, 1914-1918

Marguerite Coppens(Curator of the Lace and costumes at the Royal Art and History Museums, Brussels): Lacemaking industry, French and Belgian reactions to stimulate the industry during the war

Manuel Charpy (Professor, iRHis, Lille): Masculine uniform during WWI

Ilaria Coser (Independent scholar, UK): Women fashion journalists, 1914-1918

Jennifer Daley (PhD candidate, King’s College, London) The Marketing of Patriotism: The Political Usage of Sailor Fashion during the First World War, 1914-1918

Gillian Davies (Retired Professor, Savannah College of Art and Design, USA): Elsie de Wolfe’s style & WWI

Burcu Dogramaci (Professor, LMU, Munich): German fashion writings in war times

Lourdes Font (Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology, NYC): American Couture Houses in Paris during the War

Holly Grout (Professor, University of Alabama, USA): Beauty in France during WWI

Birgit Haase (Professor, HAW Hamburg, Germany): “La Crinoline de Guerre: a Feminine Fashion between Past and Future”

Sara Hume (Curator/Assistant Professor, Kent State University Museum): Between fashion and fold – dress practices in Alsace during WWI

Amy de la Haye (Professor, University of the Arts, London): Landgirls’ uniforms, WWI

Stéphane Jacques-Addade (Art Historian and Member of the European Chamber of Art Experts, France): Bernard Boutet de Monvel, a wartime dandy or the evolution of the uniform ‘à l’anglaise,’ 1914-1918

Catherine Join-Dieterle (former Director of the Musée Galliera, Paris): L’Art et la Mode, 1914-1918

Marta Kargol (Jagiollonski University, Krakow): Changing practices of home-made clothing in the neutral Netherlands during the Great War

Andrea Kollnitz (Assistant Professor, Center for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University): Visual Fashion Discourse and British Wartime Society in Punch 1915

Sophie Kurkdjian (IHTP/CNRS, Paris): Representations in women’s press during the War

Nigel Lezama (Professor, Brock University, Ontario, Canada): Le Flambeau & sartorial discourse during the war

Zsolt Mészáros (PhD candidate, Univeristy Eötvös Loránd, Budapest): Male fashion during WWI

Chryssa Mantaka (Assistant Professor of Costume Design at the School of Drama, Aristotle University, Thessaloniki): Dress in Salonica during the Great War, mapping the sartorial profile of the era

Maria Makela (Professor, California College of the Arts, USA): Kunstheide (artificial silk) and the democratization of German fashion

Thierry Maillet (University of Erasmus, Rotterdam): Trend-card manufacturing during WWI

Marie Mcloughlin (Professor, University of Brighton, UK): The evolution of the trench coat, from War Office to High Street

Alisa Miller (Research Fellow, Norwich University of the Arts, UK): Gladys Peto, commercial fashion illustrator and the Sketch – elite consumer culture and the changing image of the modern woman, 1914-1919

Enrica Morini (IULM University, Milano): Margharita’s war & Italian fashion during WWI

Anna Novikov (Deutsches Historisches Institut, Warsaw): Female fashion and patriotism in partitioned Poland during WWI

Lewis Orchard (textile designer, London): The fashion house Lucile, 1914-1918

Alexandra Palmer (Fashion Costume Senior Curator and Chair, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada): WWI garments from the Royal Ontario Museum

Victoria Pass (Salisbury University, Maryland, USA): Chanel, Duchamps and the rise of celebrity culture during WWI

Emmanuelle Polle (journalist, France) & Johanna Zanon (PhD student, University of Oslo):  Patou during the Great War

Alan Price (Retired Professor, Pennsylvania State University): Dressing American relief workers in the Great War, the story of three important American war charities in France

Adelheid Rasche (Curator of the Sammlung Modebild, Berlin): War and Fashion

Georgina Ripley (Curator, Modern & Contemporary Fashion & Textiles, National Museums of Scotland): Lucile & WWI, using dresses from the museum collection

Jennifer Roberts(PhD scholar, Brighton University, UK): Munitions factory worker’s dress in Britain during WWI

Margherita Rosina (Director, Museo Studio del Tessuto Fondazione Antonio Ratti, Como): War-time silk production in the collection of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti

Victoria Rovine (Associate Professor, Art History, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill): The colonial context – French fashion design and the representation of Le Soudan Français

June Rowe (PhD candidate, University of the Arts, London): Early English femininities & wartime change

Suzanne Rowland (Museum Educator, London): The rise of the mass-produced blouse, 1914-1918

Guillaume de Syon (Professor, Albright College, Pennsylvania, USA): French aviation adjustment to wartime, 1914-1918

Änne Söll (Research fellow, Institute for Arts and Media, University of Potsdam, Germany): The First World War in the Viennese Fashion Journal “Die Herrenwelt,” 1916-1917

Nadège Sougy  (Assistant Professor, University of Neuchâtel, Switzerland): Warheads and patriotic jewelry

Mary Lynn Stewart (Professor, Simon Fraser University, British Columbia, Canada): Marketing Haute Couture during the Great War

Lou Taylor (Professor, University of Brighton, UK): High Society Women in Britain and their Contribution to the War Effort

Patricia Tilburg (Professor, Davidson College, USA): Female garment workers in France during WWI

Elena Trencheva & Joanna Weckman (Postdoc researcher & graduate student in Costume Design, Department of Film, Television and Scenography, School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland): Visual representation of Finnish identity through dress during WWI

Dominique Veillon (CNRS, Paris): Mourning dress in WWI

Margaret Vining (Curator, Division of Armed Forces History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian) and Dr. Barton C. Hacker (Curator, Division of Armed Forces History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian): Uniforms re-fashioning the woman, 1914-1918, analysis of the collection of WWI uniforms worn by women volunteers in the US and overseas

Janet Watson (Professor, University of Connecticut, USA): Khaki Girls and women war workers’ uniforms during WWI

Eva Maria Zangl (Karl-Franzens, University of Graz, Austria): Manmade fibers and artificial silk during WWI

Steven Zdatny (Professor, University of Vermont, USA): Hairdressing and hairstyles during WWI


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